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September 14, 2006

イラク・クルディスタン出国~アンマン到着まで

アルビル(9月4日)

Imgp6168アマル君の車でクルド人自治区首府アルビルへ。途中ガソリンスタンドに並ぶ車が延々と数珠つながりの列。バグダードでの光景を思い出す。これでは一日待っても入れられるのかどうか。アマル君はやはり路肩で売っている闇ガソリン、外国ものはよろしくないとバグダードのドーラ製を入れていた。

Imgp6178一時間ほどでアルビル到着。中央の高台の上に巨大な古城が聳え立つ大きな都市で、古城を取り囲むいわば城下町の印象。田舎シャクラワの澄んだ空気に慣れてきていたので、大都市の澱み煤けた空気が重く全身にまとわりつく。ふと見上げた空に、米軍下請けの航空自衛隊はここまできているのかと思い出す。

迷宮のようなスーク(市場)を買い物ついでに逍遥。フレッシュジュースのシャーベット売りに興味を示したら宝飾品店の親父がおごってくれたり、買い物帰りのおやじに売り場を尋ねると案内してくれ値引き交渉まで手伝ってくれたりと、都会と言ってもみな人がいい。ところで案内してくれたイギリス生活が長く英語が達者なクルド人のおじさんは、聞いてもいないのにアラブの悪口を言っていた。彼のようにあからさまに言う人は珍しいが、これまでもクルド人に「なぜ来たの?」と質問され「バグダードの友達と会うため」と答えたとき、それがアラブ人だとわかった刹那に微妙に表情を変化させる人は多かった。

はじめにジュースを買ったスーク入口の瀬戸物屋の兄貴がやはり在英生活10年で英語が達者だったので、再び訪れてうまい食堂はないかと尋ねるとやはり店の前まで案内してくれた。食後に高瀬の願いでアルビル唯一のエスカレーターがあるというスーパーはどこかと再び兄貴に尋ねると、郊外なのでタクシーに乗る必要があるが連れて行ってやると言って、店をほっぽらかして案内してくれることになった。

ターリク兄貴がイギリスに10年もいたのは亡命していたからだそうだ。10年前、サッダームを批判するビラをまいていたら友人は次々と捕まり殺されたり拷問の末気が触れていったりしたという。兄貴は何とか逃れたわけだが、10年ぶりに故郷に帰ってみたらあらゆるものが大きく変わってしまっていて、まだ一ヶ月しか経っていないので戸惑いっぱなしの毎日だという。サッダームがいないので満足かと思いきや、決してそんな単純な話ではないようだ。ところで兄貴はタクシー代まで払ってくれた。

Imgp6181郊外のショッピングセンター、NAZAMALLに到着。今年6月に開店したばかりだそうでガラスの壁もピカピカに輝いている。タクシーから降りた途端にどこかヨーロッパかアメリカの郊外にでも来たのかと錯覚する。内装も陳列物もしかり。

Imgp6185ただし、お目当てのエスカレーターは動いていない。停電中は発電機だけではエスカレーターまで電力を賄えないそうだ。慣れないエスカレーターで日に5人は転ぶと言う。この辺を聞いてやはりイラクにいるんだと妙に安心してしまう。

帰りに兄貴が姉さんの家に寄っていけというので、お言葉に甘えてクルド人民家のおもてなしを受ける。姉さん夫婦と子どもら4人に囲まれて食事までご馳走になり、実に豊かな時間を過ごさせてもらった。お姉さんの旦那、スレイマンさんも少し英語が話せるのでイラクやクルドや日本のことなど四方山話に花が咲いた。彼らにとって、サッダーム時代がいかに苦しいものだったかということは疑いの余地がない。しかし同時に今日のイラクの混乱に対する複雑な思いが言葉の端々から滲み出ていて、その元凶としてのアメリカのやり方に対する怒りもまた激烈であった。

ちょっと寄るだけのはずがすっかり長居してしまう。泊まっていけとも言われたが、荷物もあるし明日の出発も早いのでとお暇する。ホテルまで車で送ってくれた。街は停電中。闇の中そびえたつ古城が月明かりに妖しく照らされていた。

イラク出国(9月5日)

早朝セルビス(乗り合い)タクシーでアルビルを出発。今頃サラマッド&アマラもモースルをシリアに向けて出発しているはず。一週間のイラク・クルディスタン滞在もあっという間だった。シャクラワに行くときとは変わって、あまり山岳地域には入らず緩やかな道路を車は走る。

Imgp6195割と平坦なのでうとうとしかけた頃、ふと窓から外を見るとどうもアラブ人らしき服を着た人々が多く目に付く集落が。さらにこれまでほとんど目にしなかったイラク国旗までちらほらある。同席の客に聞くとこの辺りはバシェーハというモースルに属するアラブの地域だそうな。ちなみにモースルに入るとしたら、やはりイラクのビザが必要になると言うから不思議なものだ。イラクの中にあるクルド人自治区の中にまたイラクが出てくるわけだ。この辺りの検問の警察も腕にイラク国旗のワッペンをつけたイラク警察。バグダードでイラク警察と言えば今や最も信用できないと悪評だが、久しぶりに見たイラク警察はみな愛嬌たっぷり。一緒に写真まで取らせてくれてメロンまでもらってしまった。はしゃぐ高瀬に同乗のクルド人は「置いていこうか」と呆れ顔であった。

Imgp6197やがて検問にはおなじみペシュメルガが出てきてクルド人エリアに戻る。ドホークでは米兵が何人か連れ立って町中の歩道をぞろぞろ歩いているのを見かけた。グリーンゾーンなど各米軍施設にこもりきりのバグダードではまずありえない光景だ。ここクルディスタンの治安状況がいかに安定しているかを如実に表している。ところで韓国軍は国境のタクシー乗り場付近で見かけた以外全く遭遇しなかった。よく韓国人かとも間違えられたが、聞いた限りでは韓国軍の評判はいいようだ。

お昼過ぎにザーホー到着。いよいよイラク出国だが、ずいぶんと混んでいるようでなかなか進まない。入国時とはうって変わって荷物のチェックが厳しいようだ。イラク側ではまだましだったが、トルコ側ではさらに厳重。しかも機械を使わないのでさらに時間がかかる。結局国境を抜けるのに合計4時間近くもかかってしまった。トルコ側で係員に「イラクのどこで何をしていた」とたずねられたので、「バグダードの友人とシャクラワで会っていた。今イラクは治安が悪いのでクルディスタンで会おうということになったんだ」と答えると、

「クルディスタンなど存在しない。イラクで会っていたんだろう」

「だから、イラクのクルディスタン地域で・・・」

「クルディスタンなど存在しない」

「はあ、イラクのクルド人の住む地域って言えばいいんですか?」

やがて別室に連れて行かれて、「トルコではクルディスタンなんて口にしちゃあいけない。人によっては怒り狂うぞ」と警告を受ける。なるほど「~スタン」というのは確か「~人の土地、国」という意味だから、クルド人国家を絶対に認めない立場のトルコとしては禁句なんだろう。おそらくシリアもイランも同じか。国境を越えてからシリア国境へ抜けるヌサイビンまでも検問が多かった。行きは全くなかったのに不思議なものだ。イラクのクルディスタンから来る人間には異様に神経を尖らせているようだ。

クルド人は独自の文化と言語をもち、トルコ、イラク、イラン、シリアなどにまたがる地域に2000万人から3000万人も暮らしているというのに、独自の国家を持たずに各国の思惑の中で翻弄され続けてきた歴史を持つ民族だ。1500万人ものクルド人が住むというここトルコでは特に激しく弾圧されてきたと聞いていたがなるほど頷ける。あちこちではためいていたクルド旗を思い出し、一定の自治が認められている今のイラクのクルディスタンに住む400万人ほどのクルド人は、トルコなどのクルド人と比べてずいぶんと恵まれてきているのでないかとも思う。しかし、愛民族心がさらに盛り上がり、各地でクルド人国家独立への気運が高まれば、新たな戦争になるかもしれないと心配していた人もいたことを思い出す。初めてのクルディスタン訪問。サラマッドとの打合せが主な目的ではあったが、未知の世界だったクルディスタンを垣間見て、自己と世界の関係を新たに構築させる課題をいくつか土産にすることが出来た。

シリアとの国境の町ヌサイビンに到着したのは午後4時過ぎ。国境がなんと午後3時で閉まるらしく、今夜はトルコで足止め決定。サラマッドに電話すると、モースルで数件の爆破事件があったらしく国境が閉鎖されて彼らもモースルから出られなくなったそうだ。結局ダマスカスで落ち合えるのは明日の夜ということになった。


ダマスカスで友を待つ(9月6日)

Imgp6220朝10時に国境が開き、歩いてシリアへ。カーミシュリーのガラージュ(バス停)から12時半発のダマスカス行き長距離バスに乗る。デリゾールまで親戚の結婚式に行くという自称日本人似の青年二人と駄弁っていると、あっという間にユーフラテス川を越える。夕暮れ時にパルミラで軽く食事。車窓から外を眺めると、金色の落日に照らされて朱に染まり彼方にかすんでゆく遺跡群を、峻厳とした岩山に凛然とそそり立つアラブ城が見守っていた。古から絶えず繰り返されてきた人間の熱き栄華の夢の跡。やがて透き通った瑠璃色の帳が包み、白銀の月が今夜も変わらぬ光を注ぐ。まどろむ人々の幾多の夢を乗せて、バスは美の古都シャーム、ダマスカスを目指して走り続ける。

9時過ぎにダマスカス到着。アンマン行きのガラージュに移動して友を待つが、日付が変わってもまだ来ない。電話もないし、こちらからも通じないので何かあったのではないかと心配になる。レストランの兄貴達が不憫に思ったのかタダでヒヨコマメやらチャイやらジュースやらをおごってくれる。警官まで暇つぶしにチャイをおごってくれる。朝まで待ってもこなかったら、先にアンマンに向かうしかないかと思っていた頃やっとサラマッド&アマラ登場。時刻はもう朝の4時を回っていた。イラク側国境ではアマラのビザが期限切れだからバグダードまで戻って手続きしてこいと言われ、冗談じゃないといくらか金を握らせ何とか通過したものの、シリア国境ではバスの他の乗客共々6時間も待たされたそうだ。

アンマンへ(9月7日)

早速タクシーをシェアして夜明けの道を国境へ急ぐ。4人ともいつの間にか眠りこけてしまい目が覚めたらもう国境だ。現在ヨルダン国境ではイラク人の入国が厳しく規制されているので、サラマッドは果たして入国できるのだろうかとみなに心配されていたが、一時間程度で通過。やはりフランス人アマラとの結婚証明、そしてフランス行きの航空券を持っているからだろう。

9時頃アンマンに到着し、いつものイラク人ご用達ホテルにチェックイン。サラマッド&アマラは早速航空会社へ便の日程変更へ。イラク情勢のせいで予定の便に間に合わなかったということで、いくらかペナルティを支払って明日の朝の便に変更することができたそうだ。二人のアンマン滞在が一日しかないということで、一睡もせずに友人へのあいさつ回りを何件もはしごする。以前と比べて料金を高くぼったくろうとするタクシー運転手が増えていて、乗るたびにエネルギーを消耗する。あいさつ回りの最後、イラク人画家ハニ・デラ・アリさんの家に着いたのは夜11時過ぎ。さすがに寝不足でフラフラになりながら深夜2時頃ホテルに戻る。少し眠って翌朝6時ころ無理矢理目をこじ開けてサラマッド&アマラの出発を見送ったあと、お昼近くまで死んだように眠っていた。

アンマンでの活動(9月8日~)

サラマッド&アマラを無事送り出してからは、これまでのちょっと無理のあったスケジュールを改め、休み休み体力の回復に努めながら活動中。10月2日から銀座中和ギャラリーで行われるイラク人現代作家展のための打合せ、ビザ取得手続きなどを、今回も来日予定のハニさん、そして初来日となる画家シルワン・バランさんと進めています。滞在中のホテルは、相変わらず自分達以外の宿泊客はほとんどバグダードから逃れてきたイラク人。ロビーに集まればイラク人持ち前の明るさで盛り上がっていますが、それぞれ話しを聞くとやはり皆深刻な問題を抱えています。先日はジャーナリスト・シバレイ氏の取材にお邪魔してアブグレイブ刑務所で拷問を受けた方のお話も直接聞くことが出来ました。このように伝えたいことは山ほどありますが、帰国後の企画のための準備が遅れているので、これまで少しずつ紹介してきた「イラク・クルディスタンでの手記」以降は、詳しくお伝えできるのは帰国後の別の機会になるかもしれませんがご了承ください。それでも活動中はこのブログで出来るだけ現地の様子などお伝えしていくよう努めますので、これからもよろしくお願いします。

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Comments

トルコでの爆破事件はニュースでも報道されて
いてそれが報道されたとき、一瞬息が止まりました。
その国で生活している人のことを思えば複雑ですが…YATCHが無事でよかった。
本当に安心の気持ちをイラクやトルコやレバノンの皆と分け合える日がくるように祈っています。

きっとハニさんちで元気一杯のあなたでしょうが
お体にはお気をつけて無事に戻っていっぱい話を聴かせてください。

Posted by: 千代 | September 14, 2006 at 07:02 PM

千代ちゃん、

そういえば今回、アンマンではローマ劇場前、ダマスカスでは米大使館前と、どちらも現地に向かう数日前、行く先々で何かしら事件がありましたねえ。

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Posted by: JamesPaf | October 25, 2017 at 08:39 AM

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