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September 06, 2006

イラク・クルディスタンまで行ってきました。&8月29&30日手記

Imgp6073_1
29日朝、予定通りシリアのダマスカスに到着し、すぐさまバスで北東の町カーミシュリーへ向かいトルコを経由して2年ぶりにイラク入国。クルド人自治区、アルビル近くのシャクラワという小さな村で6日ほど逗留し、バグダードでの活動を終えたイラク人現地スタッフ、サラマッド&アマラと支援の打合せ、調整を済ませ、本日9月5日無事にイラクを出国しました。安全上の理由からブログでの報告を控えていましたが、これまでの記録を少しずつ記しておきます。

*本日中にトルコからシリアに抜ける予定でしたが、イラクとトルコの国境で4時間も待たされてしまい、トルコ、シリアの国境に着いたときにはすでに国境閉鎖時間を過ぎてしまっていたので今夜はトルコのヌサイビンに泊まる羽目になってしまいました。シリアで再び落ち合う予定だったサラマッドに電話すると、爆破事件が相次いだため今日はモースルのボーダーが閉鎖されてしまったらしく、彼らも明日の出発となったそうです・・・。


(8月29日)
およそ一年ぶりのダマスカス。長距離バスの停留所へとただ通り過ぎるだけだったが、バッシャール・アサド大統領とヒズボッラーのナスラッラー党首のツーショットポスターを誇らしげに掲げた何台もの車がいつもの喧騒を縫って走り、街に新しい彩を加えていた。正午。照りつける太陽が稠密な大気を通して肌を刺すが、東京の蒸した夏に疲れた心に乾いたアラブの風が心地好い。

Imgp6038_1シリア南西の首都から北東の町カーミシュリーまでシリア横断の旅が始まる。アラブ人とクルド人、そして二人の東洋人を乗せてほぼ満員になった長距離バスが荒涼とした砂漠の道をひた走る。3年前、初めてアラブの地に降り立ったときも、ここダマスカスから夜明け前の砂漠の闇を、未知なる都バグダードに向けて胸を高鳴らせながらバスに揺られていたのを思い出す。バグダードは再び遥かなる都になってしまった。

Imgp6041_1末席を占拠していたアラブ人家族と懇意になり、片言のアラビア語で道中の徒然を慰めあっているうちに、バスはすでに道半ばを越えデリゾールの町に入り、やがて豊かな水を湛えたユーフラテス川を渡る。太古からメソポタミアの大地と生命を潤してきたこの大河の流れは、今もイラクの地へとめどなく続いているが、今やファッルージャなどから川に投棄された累々とした屍が大魚の胃袋を満たしているという。

日が暮れかかる頃から、ちらほらと羊の群れ、そしてアラブの遊牧民、ベドウィンの集落を多く目にする。趣のある土や藁で固められた家並みに、不釣合いな電線の装飾が重ねられている。砂漠の民も今や電気なしでは住みにくいのだろう。

日が落ちて末席のアラブ人家族がハッサケで降りると、バスに残っているのはほとんどがクルド人。片言のアラビア語でいくつかクルド語を教えてもらっているうちに、夜9時頃、目的地であるトルコへの国境沿いの町カーミシュリーの町に着いた。「中国人?韓国人?日本人?」珍しい東洋人にタクシードライバーが群がってくる。明日イラクのアルビルに直行する友人のタクシーを紹介するという男Hについて宿を探すが、イラクやトルコからの客でどこも満室。結局ドライバーの好意で彼の自宅に泊めてもらうことに。英語はほとんど解さないので、辞書を片手にアラビア語で明日のタクシーの交渉。サッダーム時代のイラク同様シリアでは秘密警察がうるさいので、ここに泊まったことは内緒だと念を押され、また国境を越えるときはトルコに観光に行くと言ったほうがいいなどと助言される。運転手は奥さんと双子の赤ちゃんとの4人家族。一見して貧しい家庭なのだが、ちゃんと僕ら二人にベッドを用意してくれて自分達は縁側で眠るなど、虫に悩まされてなかなか眠れなかったけれども、精一杯もてなしてくれたのがありがたかった。電気のない真っ暗闇のトイレに起きると、見上げた夜空に満天の星が煌々と瞬いていた。

(8月30日)
Imgp6051_1朝、結局Hの友人はアルビルに行けなくなったのでトルコに着いたら自力でタクシーを捜してくれと言われる。まあはじめからそのつもりだったので問題はない。トルコまで歩いて国境を渡る。歩いて国を跨ぐのは10年前のアメリカ一人旅のときメキシコに渡ったとき以来か。

Imgp6052_1イラクとの国境シロッピまで、故郷のイラクのザーホーに帰郷するというドイツ国籍を持つおじさんとタクシーをシェアする。アラビア語とクルド語でいっぱいいっぱいだった頭にドイツ語が注ぎ込まれて飽和状態になり、かつて少しはかじったドイツ語なのになかなか出てこない。車はシリアの国境沿いを走る。牧歌的な風景にまどろみかける度に、鎮座するトルコ軍の戦車が目を覚さませる。国境の町シロッピでタクシーを乗り換え、いざイラク国境へ。トルコ側国境ではぼろを着た水売りの子らが「マイ~、マイ~(水~、水~)」となぜかアラビア語で群がってくる。

Imgp6066_1イラク側国境に向かうとタンクローリーが長蛇の列。トルコから産油国のイラクにガソリンを運ぶんだそうだ。復興どころではないイラクでは石油の精製が追いつかないので、こうして一度原油を輸出して、ガソリンを輸入するはめになっているのだ。

Imgp6074_1
さていよいよイラク側国境に到着すると、クルド人兵士のペシュメルガが大勢でお出迎え。見上げるとイラク国旗はなく、赤白緑のボーダーストライプの中央に黄色の太陽がデザインされたクルドの旗が青い空にはためいていて、看板には「ようこそイラクのクルディスタン地域へ」。いたるところにクルドの英雄バルザーニーの肖像。入国は問題なかったが、これまでのイラク入国を振り返ると、まるで別な国に入るようだ。シロッピからタクシーに同乗したタイの青年、これからスレイマニーヤのテレコム会社で一年間働くというシャイシャイ君の上司が車で迎えに来てくれていて、途中我々の目的地も通るということでなんとタダで乗せてもらうことになった。(続く)

*日記が整理できていないので取り急ぎここまで。高瀬のブログがちょい先取りしてるのでご覧ください。

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Comments

わ、イラクに入国したんだね。
サラマッドもOKしたし大丈夫だと思いますが
気をつけてね。
香織里ちゃんともども安全を祈っています。

しかし、念願のイラク入りのせいだね、状況が悪化してかつてと様相が変わっているとはいえ恋しい地にいてYATCHの文章がいつもより生き生きしているのを感じます。
すごいな。

Posted by: 千代 | September 06, 2006 at 09:09 PM

イラクに入国していたのですね!
さすがです。
無事出国されたとのことで何よりです。
報告会楽しみにしています!

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